Sunday, March 20, 2011

First full week in Arusha

This week I spent some of my time experimenting and talking to people about various volunteer opportunities as I wait for the yoghurt mamas to receive their startup capital. I spent some time at Home of Hope to help teach English to nursery school children but I think they appreciated me playing with them a lot more! Every time I go, they run up to me and compete aggressively for a chance to hold my hand or touch me. All the children come from very poor families; they are so sweet and innocent! There is also a program at Home of Hope for older children (at a separate time) who only have their primary school education and are trying to complete their secondary school education. This program just started in February and currently only 15 students are enrolled. It is really great because it gives these kids a chance to further their education, who maybe thought they were destined to a life of poverty. I spoke with one of the teachers at this program and learned that the students are learning English, Math, Biology, Chemistry, Geography, History, Kiswahili, and Civics. I am hoping to help the students with English next week.
              
  I also spent some of my time volunteering at the New Sahara CafĂ©. It’s been a really great experience, but as a whole it’s really not a lot different than working at a small restaurant in Canada apart from the Kiswahili, food served, sanitary conditions, and a few other minor things. Only one of the other waitresses speaks English so I am forced to use/learn Swahili. I realize that in order to really learn a language you have to be in an environment where everyone is speaking it. Yes reading books helps, but it’s just not the same as physically surrounding yourself by those who constantly speak it. I think I’ve learned more Swahili in one week than I did in one month!

On Wednesday Chris and I had planned to visit the Arusha International Conference Centre (AICC), which is where the International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda is located. We had already found out earlier that all that was required was a passport and you were free to come in and watch the court proceedings. However, for some reason there were no trials taking place this week so we’ll have to reschedule our trip!
 Since that was our plan for the day, we were a little uncertain about what to do for the remainder of our time. So, we just started walking and soon came across “The Arusha Hotel”. We decided to go inside and check it out. I was so impressed! It is absolutely gorgeous; I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a hotel that nice before. I felt like I was in a different world. The first thing on my mind was to use the bathroom, which was beautiful. It was so clean; it smelled great, there was soap and hot water, and toilet paper! (I’ve learned that I have to carry extra toilet paper in my purse everywhere I go because it’s rare to come across bathrooms let alone toilet paper!). I think it is definitely worth the daladala trip into town just to use the bathroom…which says a lot! We also checked out the restaurant that had a delicious salad bar set up which definitely made my mouth water. This may sound odd, but one thing I really miss about Canada is my daily salad!  I asked how much it costs to stay there for one night, the answer: $250 USD! I admit it was pretty hard for me to get up out of the comfy, clean leather chair to leave. When we left Chris and I were discussing how unreal it is how close the rich and the poor are. One minute we are in this rich high class hotel, and then we walk out the door into a poor run down town with people begging for money, children in tattered clothes, and people trying to make their dollar go as far as possible just to get by. It is quite an eye opening experience.
After this, we came across a tourists dream destination! It was like a small market selling everything you can imagine in one location! There were bracelets, necklaces, earrings, kangas, scarves, paintings, purses, bags, etc, etc, etc! And most of the people in the shops make everything! They are so talented!
I felt kind of like a celebrity walking through, all the mamas were competing for my attention, telling me they would give me a good price, and pulling me into their shops! I told them that day I was just looking but I would definitely be back!

                Early this week Chris made the bold decision that he wanted to climb Mount Kilimanjaro! He got in touch with a good company and before we knew it, he found out he had the chance to go on Saturday with two other people from Melbourne Australia! I decided I would just do the day trip which involves trekking the mountain for one day to the first point (campsite). On Saturday morning we were picked up by a big safari jeep by 7:30am and made the two hour trip to Moshi. The entire ride was in the pouring rain (Arusha is currently in the rainy season) which was a little unsettling, but luckily when we arrived at the gate for our route the rain had stopped, at least for a little while. I started ahead of the others with my day trip guide Godluck. He was such a nice guy, and he helped the time pass by providing me with a lot of interesting facts about the mountain and all the different times he’s climbed. One thing that I can’t get over is how strong the porters (people who carry all your bags, food, etc) are! They carry up to 20kg up the entire mountain, and they must stay ahead of the climbers so they arrive in time to set up at each campsite. Some of them will climb up to 3 or 4 times per month! And keep in mind that it takes about 6 days to get up and back down the mountain!
                Overall my hike was a pretty cool experience. The scenery was really beautiful and most of the time the paths had fairly even footing. There were many steep areas but also flatter parts for some down time. It took about 3 hours to get to the first point (my goal), and by the last hour it had started to pour rain again! I did have a rain jackets, pants, and an umbrella so it wasn’t that bad. But, when we reached the first point there was no shelter (like the trees provided when we were walking) so we had to walk down a ways to find a place to eat our picnic lunch which was provided. We found a spot and huddled under my umbrella where we quickly consumed half of a cheese and carrot sandwich, a hardboiled egg, a piece of chicken, some glucose biscuits, and a juice box!
                The way down was obviously much easier and took about half the time. We passed Chris and his crew and I wished him the best of luck and told him to stay positive! One thing the climbers are constantly told is to take it very pole pole (slowly slowly). They say many young fit people go too fast at the beginning and don’t have the strength left at the end to make it to the summit. On day 4 the climbers wake up at 12:00am and make the final trek to the summit for 6 hours! I was pretty tired after the climbing for over 4 hours, and admit the day trip was enough for me! I’m wishing Chris and all the climbers the best of luck this week as they make their way up Mount Kilimanjaro; it truly is a remarkable task that takes extreme mental and physical toughness! I can’t wait to hear all Chris’s stories when he returns next week!
The Jeep we took to Moshi

Climbing team!

Me and my guide!

The super strong porters!!!
Mount Kilimanjaro Facts
Mount Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in Africa and the fourth highest of the seven summits. It is the tallest freestanding mountain in the world, rising to an altitude of 5,898m (19,341 ft) above sea level. In addition, it is one of the biggest volcanoes on Earth, covering an area of approximately 388,500 hectares. It began forming a million years ago when lava spilled from the Rift Valley zone.
There are six official climbing routes by which to climb Mt Kilimanjaro, namely: Marangu, Rongai, Lemosho, Shira, Umbwe abd Machame.
Chris will be taking the Machame route. It is regarded by many as the most enjoyable, although it is longer and according to most, more arduous. The route begins on the south side of the mountain; the trail passes through some of the mountain’s finest features, including the cloud forest of Kili’s southern slopes, the dry and dusty Shira Plateau and the delightful senecio-clad Barranco Campsite.  
Unlike the Marangu Route, on the Machame Route you don’t use the same path to descend as you took to climb up the mountain, but instead you come down via the Mweka Route, a steep but very pretty descent encompassing inhospitably dry mountain desert and lush lowland forest in a matter of a few hours.

Weather on Kilimanjaro
Kilimanjaro is big enough to have its own weather pattern. The theory behind this pattern is very simple. Strong winds travel across the oceans, drawing moisture as they go up. Eventually they collide with a large object (Mt. Kilimanjaro). The winds are pushed upwards as they hit the mountain slopes, and the fall in temperature and atmospheric pressure leads to precipitation (snow and rain).
The south-east trade wind brings rain from the Indian Ocean between March and May. Then there are the dry ‘anti-trade’ winds from the north-east which carry no rain and hit Kilimanjaro between May and October. A second seasonal rain-bearing wind, the north-east monsoon, having already most of its moisture after travelling overland for a long period, brings a short rainy season between November and February. However, all the rain falls mainly below 3000m. You may be wondering how the snow on the summit got there if all the precipitation falls below 3000m? The answer is blowing in the (anti-trade) wind: though these winds normally blow very strongly, as those who walk north across the Saddle will testify, they occasionally drop in force, allowing the south-east trade winds that run beneath them to climb up the southern slopes to the Saddle and on to the summit. Huge banks of clouds then develop and snow falls. This, at least, is the theory of Kilimanjaro’s climate. In practice, of course, the mountain is rarely so predictable.

What is the temperature on Mount Kilimanjaro?    
The short answer is that the temperatures on Mount Kilimanjaro range from hot to bitter cold. The journey from the gate to the peak is like traveling from the equator to Antarctica in a matter of days. This is because the routes to the Uhuru peak cross different ecological zones. Mount Kilimanjaro has five major ecological zones, each approximately 3,280 feet (1,000 m) in altitude. Each zone is subject to a corresponding decrease in rainfall, temperature and life as the altitude increases.
Mount Kilimanjaro does not experience wide temperature changes from season to season. Instead, the temperatures on Mount Kilimanjaro are determined more so by the altitude and time of day. At the beginning of the climb, at the base of the mountain, the average temperature is around 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 27 degrees Celsius). From there, the temperatures will decrease as you move through Mount Kilimanjaro's ecological zones. At the summit, Uhuru Point, the night time temperatures can range between 0 and -15 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -26 degrees Celsius).
Note: The Seven Summits, a well-known mountaineering objective, are the highest peaks on each of the seven continents. The Seven Summits, from highest to lowest, are:
1.   Asia: Mount Everest 29,035 feet (8850 meters)
2.   South America: Aconcagua 22,829 feet (6962 meters)
3.   North America: Denali AKA Mount McKinley 20,320 feet (6194 meters)
4.   Africa: Kilimanjaro 19,340 feet (5895 meters)
5.   Europe: Mount Elbrus 18,510 feet (5642 meters)
6.   Antarctica: Mount Vinson 16,067 feet (4897 meters)
7.   Australia: Mount Kosciusko 7,310 feet (2228 meters)
OR
8.   Australasia/Oceania: Carstensz Pyramid 16,023 feet (4884 meters)
Other interesting Facts!
-          Just when I thought the daladala rides couldn’t get any worse I was proven wrong. On the morning of my birthday (Thursday) it was pouring rain! Luckily I had my umbrella, so I made my way to catch the daladala. Thursdays and Sundays are market days in Ngaramtoni so the daladalas are absolutely packed! After letting a few jam packed daladalas pass, I realized I just had to get on the next one or else I’d never get there. I don’t know how I fit, but all I know is that the door was open and I was hanging on for dear life! Later in the day Chris returned to tell me he also had a horrible daladala experience. He was sitting beside a man holding around 20 live chickens by the feet which were flapping right at his legs! This must have been extra disturbing for Chris as he has a fear of chickens! Pole sana!
-          I ate a fish eye! Usually when you order fish from a restaurant here you are served exactly that – a whole fish – eyes and brains included. I haven’t had the guts to do it for a while, but finally on my birthday I went for it! I’ve heard they have a lot of protein too!

Boiled Tilapia



1 comment:

  1. I admire and salute those people who dedicate their time and effort to help and educate the children in poor countries. You are the real hero.

    Bryce Activities

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